Smart Home Energy Monitor Supports Home Assistant, Real-Time Accurate Energy Consumption Tracking, Electricity Usage Monitor with 16x60A Circuit Sensors, 36-Month History, Solar Metering, 2.4G

This monitor is great! I wanted to monitor the current of several large appliances that I could not monitor with just smart energy monitor plugs. I also did not want to accidentally turn off the power to something like the refrigerator, as is typical with smart plugs having the ability to turn the plug on/off. Being able to monitor the current consumption and peak amps of a larger appliance allows me to gain possible insights into the health of the appliance.The installation was straight forward with no need to pull the wire out of each breaker, because the Circuit Transformers (CTs) unclip to open up and clamp loosely around the insulated wire and then each CT easily plugs into headphone-jack-style ports on the hub that sits inside the panel. The em16 includes 2 main CTs, each rated at 200 amps that are installed onto the main feeds coming into the electrical panel, and 16 individual Circuit Transformers, individually rated at up to 60 amps to monitor up to 16 individual circuits. Keep in mind that for any appliance that has 2 hots going to the appliance, this will require a CT for each wire to be more accurate, or in some cases, you may want to use a power factor of “2” and only use 1 CT – if the power to both phases are very similar, like an electric heating element.The only real issue that I had was when I assumed the size of the knockout on my exterior electrical panel would be the same size as the rubber pass-though grommet included on the WiFi antenna, it looked really close!People have mentioned in Amazon reviews that the instructions were incorrect when they installed the Smart Energy Meter and see negative readings showing up in the app, but this is due to incorrect installation. I highly recommend testing during the install process to make sure you install the CTs onto the correct phase and correct orientation. I think the directions could be clarified slightly for this reason, also an app update will bring the ability to swap each CT from negative to positive, without having to reinstall each CT if you mess up.The setup of the app was quick and straight forward, automatically finding the device when I opened the Refoss app and then a firmware update that took about 5 minutes. I already had Meross installed on my Home Assistant instance and HA prompted that a new device had been found and I clicked “Add”.Each of the circuits in the app are named something like A1, A2, A3…. B1, B2, etc. but you can rename them easily by clicking on the hamburger button (three lines in the top right of the app) to open up the device settings, then click on the first option, “Device name”, then tap the circuit that you want to include a unique name after the circuit identifier to change the name from “A3-A3” to something like “A3-Water Heater”.How I Chose What Circuits to Monitor in our Electrical Panel:For me, I saved 2 CTs to monitor the 2-phase power coming from our emergency generator. Next, my priority was to monitor our large or power hungry appliances, and then with whatever CTs I had left over, I could monitor a few smaller circuits with wall plugs or lights.I've already created Home Assistant automations around the water heater, dishwasher, clothes washer and clothes dryer circuit sensors, and an automation if the stove/oven is accidentally left on.

EM-16 is a good product. Wired it in just fine, even in my tight panel space. Experienced the same issues as others, where the CT readings are backwards, I reversed them in the App. The App didn't make this obvious at first, there is more information in the sales and review info than in the manual. I just waited until all16 circuits reported, and then the negative channels I reversed with the correction factor in the App. My App wish list things are : 1- Need a time value added to the consumption limits. Right now you can set a max kW limit, but eventually everything will reach that Max. The time value would reset the accumulated value to zero, at users setting such as, 1 hour , 24 hour, ect. This would monitor something left on or running better than current configuration. 2- It would be nice if the App could sum the values of Main A and B, this would reflect your typical providers meter for kW usage. That being 240 volt A-B phase with a neutral. Overall enjoying the energy monitor.

I decided to replace another model that was having WiFi issues with this new one. This one was able to read twice as many and is more accurate than the version 1 of the other model I was using. My system is a two phase, three wire 200 Amp.Install was as expected. I have a flush mount box and my mains run in at the bottom unlike most that come in at the top, so extra caution was needed. Since it was flush I just bend the cover panel a little to run the antenna wire to the top.This almost fit on top for me, but I needed a little more room so I did knock out a section in the box to fit the power cable up into the whole. The clamps are a little smaller than my last one I was using, and that was a good thing.I compared measurement to the history of the other system and my fluke clamp and it was very accurate. It has voltage since wires to measure each main leg for better accuracy if you panel might be slightly imbalanced.When changing the multiplayer in the app for a single clamp on a double pole 240 breaker it will only show double the wattage over all being measured, the amperage and voltage still show singular. I have mentioned this to the company and believe they might be correcting this in the app. But in the end, it’s the over all wattage that I want to see anyway.TIP: Plan ahead, read the instructions on how the clamps get installed since they correspond with the voltage sense wires. The small clamps can measure 60 Amps so you can use just one on a 240 double pole breaker and multiply the wattage in the app changing it from 1 to 2.Plan it out before the install as you can see I did in the one picture with the old system still installed.Make sure the arrow is pointing to the breaker when installing the clamps also so it doesn’t read it backwards.Remember the lugs under the main break are still I’ve and take all needed safety precautions. If you dont feel conformable installing something like this then have an electrician do it.

This thing is AWESOME. My January power bill was over $700. I had no idea why it was so high. I purchased the system to see if I could find out why. The system allowed me to see that my heating system was using almost twice as much energy as it should be using. It also works well for monitoring all of the rest of my usage. I found out that my Hot Water heater accounts for about 1/3 of my energy usage. I can reduce that by installing a timer. In March, my power bill was nearly cut in half without a major change in weather. It has already paid for itself.I installed it myself-Super Easy and the connection to my home network was amazingly simple.